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Crabgrass Prevention Early spring Use a crabgrass pre-emergent when the forsythia is in bloom. Do not use a regular product on newly seeded areas. For these areas use a new lawn crabgrass control product i.e. step 1 for seeding or new lawn crabgrass control. We now have dimension in our commercial step 1 fertilizer it prevents and kills crabgrass up to the 3 leaf stage. We also sell commercial grade fertilizers to homeowners; it’s always the best price. Ask the cashier for a price list. Broadleaf Weed Control Early summer Granular weed killers work very well if applied properly. You can use a weed killer with fertilizer or without however both must be applied to a damp lawn and not allowed to wash off for 24 hours or more. Liquid weed killers can be applied if the turf is dry and not washed off for 24 hours or more. Avoid using weed killers on very windy days, very hot days or close to your garden or flower/shrub beds. Do not use on immature turf and always follow label directions. Mid-Summer fertilizer and Grub Control No grubs use an organic fertilizer like Espoma organic or Turf Tone in order to avoid damage to drought stressed turf. If you have a grub problem or just want to be protected use Mach II in or step 3 package. Grubs stop feeding immediately once the ingest this chemical. Soil Amendments The native soil in this area is heavy clay. It has a natural pH of 5.2 to 5.6. Many of the new developments have clay/shale sub soil exposed. To help the soil in your garden or your lawn use organic, mineral or man made conditioners. Turface MVP, sand, peatmoss, organic topsoil, compost, manure, gypsum or lime, can be used. Bring in a soil sample for a free pH test and we will be glad to give you a recommendation to fix your specific problem. Lawn Repair and Renovation Early fall is the best time to re-seed your lawn. The dew in the AM will aid in the germination. Reduced competition from weeds and crabgrass (and the chemicals used to control them) will help the young grass. Use a starter fertilizer and check your soil pH. Hold off on the winter fertilizer till after thanksgiving. Total renovation (Starting over) If your lawn is more weed than grass a more aggressive plan could be used. 1) Use Roundup to kill all grass and weeds. 2) Rake up all dead material. 3) Prepare/repair the soil using amendments. 4) Re-seed using a starter fertilizer and straw or Penn mulch to hold moisture and prevent wash out. Total kill Herbicides Roundup is for use on actively growing vegetation. It will kill any and all green plant material if applied in sufficient concentrations under the proper conditions. Roundup has no soil activity and only works through the green of the plant. Triox is a total kill that works through the soil and through the green of the plant. It has substantial soil activity and can keep the soil dead for up to a year if applied properly. Always follow label directions and avoid drift and runoff. Pre-emergent Preen is an excellent product to save time in the garden or bed. It keeps listed weeds and grasses from growing from seed. It does not kill most plants that are already growing. Preen for ground covers, preen and green, and regular preen are available in different sizes to suit your specific needs. Always follow label directions and avoid drift and runoff.+ Lime and soil pH Use 1 ton of lime per acre to raise the soil pH 1/2 point. Lime will help you to get more out of your fertilizer. There is no wrong time to lime; it takes time to work into the soil. Lime does not react with fertilizers or burn new seedlings, apply at anytime. Bring in a soil sample for a free pH test. Collect the sample from under the sod and put it in a sealed plastic bag to avoid drying out, do not add water. Lawn fungus control Lawn fungus is one of the most difficult and dangerous lawn problems. Lawn fungus can come in many varieties and appear at different times. The one common cause of almost all fungus problems is over fertilizing and over watering. Thatch, compacted soil and poor pH are also contributing factors. Fungus is easier to avoid or prevent than to cure. Watch out for lawn service companies that can spread fungus from one lawn to another. If you had a fungus problem last year: 1. Clean your lawn mower and lawn tools with a bleach and water solution. 2. Dispose of your pile of lawn clippings from last year or entomb them and don’t collect them anymore. 3. Treat your lawn in the early (before the fungus comes back) spring. Use a granular or liquid fungus control product. Two applications are usually required 10 days apart. Follow label directions. 4. Now work on the contributing factors, water only in the early part of the day, lime the lawn, re-seed with a proprietary seed, keep lawn services off your lawn and keep your equipment clean. Grow grass in the shade!? Turf grass will not grow in dense shade. Partially shaded areas can grow grass well however follow these tips for better results. 1) Start with a shade mix grass seed (fine fescue and shade tolerant blue grass). 2) Fertilize early and late to encourage growth when the trees are not fully leafed out. 3) Lime the lawn under the trees as these areas are the most acidic in your lawn 4) Cut the grass taller in these areas to catch more light. 5) Aerate to encourage root growth and water deeply during dry periods as the trees will compete for moisture Our Commercial 4 step program We feel it is the best way to a great lawn Everything fertilizer and starter stuff with price breaks
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